Today we’ll be continuing from the last podcast with Cheryl Peng from Untamed Artistry. There was so much to talk about we totally forgot about the time, so we split this podcast into two parts. 

This is part two so if you haven’t watched the first part, what’re you waiting for! Watch the first part then get back here ASAP!!  PART ONE

In this episode we will be going into details regarding issues with lash adhesives and retention, while also talking about how to use your hygrometer. So let’s go!

Episode Notes for Troubleshooting Your Lash Adhesive and Retention Issues – Part 2/2 with Cheryl Peng of Untamed Artistry

What do lash artists need to know about adhesives and retention in order for it to work for them?

• To put it simply, the main ingredient that makes the lash stick is Ethyl Cyanoacrylate. It’s kind of a plastic in liquid state, and it turns into solid when exposed to moisture. 

• This is why humidity and temperature are important when working with lashes.
  

• There is also a detailed free course at the Lash Cast Podcast.
  

• Once the chemical changes from liquid state to solid state, there’s nothing that can change it back to liquid state or damage it unless you use a remover. 
  

• Oil doesn’t affect your retention, neither do face make up or skin care or even eye liners. However they do play a role in how your client is going to retain the lashes. 
  

You have to check the 3 points to ensure a perfect retention:

You have to prepare your lashes really well by opening up the scale of the hair of the lashes. You need to make a maximum point of contact with your real lashes by opening up the cuticles. Start with squeaky clean lashes for better retention. 

Find a non-alcohol based primer to open up the cuticles.

When you’re using lash primer and you don’t need it… what is it doing to the natural lash? 

• It would dry out the lash a lot and make it brittle. Cyanoacrylate needs moisture to turn into hard plastic. When you don’t need primer, it leaves the lash extremely dry and when it has no moisture, it will take a long time for adhesive to dry. 
  

• Cheryl Peng personally prefers to perform cleansing with warm saline as it opens the pores and the cuticles. It actually makes it more comfortable for the clients. 

Proper Application for the Best Lash Retention and Application

• If there is ONE thing you should be mastering as a lash artist, its proper application!
  

• Reason why is because if you can get a perfect application, no matter if your client’s sleep face down or uses a number of different oils and skin care, the lashes will not fall down.
  

• If your application is on point, oils won’t matter. 
  

• However, if your application is not on point, the lashes will fall off with regular wear and tear as there is a build up of makeup or natural skin oils and the gap gets larger over time and the lashes prematurely fall off.
  

• There should be a maximum point of contact between lashes to ensure a proper application and maximum retention. 
  

• If your client has 6mm natural lash and you’re applying 8mm classic lash, then you should dip at least 5mm glue to ensure that the whole lash is attached with the natural lash. 
  

• This will ensure maximum attachment. 

How do you maximize lash attachment when using a D-curl? 

• For this kind of attachment, you should always come from underneath. This way you will be leveraging the curl in the D-curl to lift up the straight lash. Unless your natural lash is a seesaw of weight distribution. 

Why does the majority of the lash industry believe that adhesive can be dissolved, or the retention is affected by oil or oily skin care?

• Well, the main reason is confirmation bias. Someone must have experienced their lash falling off that one time, and they spread the word about oil or oily skin care being the culprit. 
  

• What we should keep in mind is that if the attachment is not good in the first place, if there is even a little gap in the corner it can have oil leaked inside and push them apart. 
  

• Even normal wear and tear like blinking can cause attachments to loosen up if the application is not proper. 

Your Lash Studio Environment and Adhesive Management

• In order for your adhesive to work properly, you need to understand how to manage the surroundings. 
  
• Think of adhesive as your worker and you have to figure out which things work best for them.
  

• The first and foremost thing to remember is how much adhesive you are using. You need to interpret how much adhesive is enough. It shouldn’t be too less nor too much.
  

• Also keep in mind the environment as if you put too much, it will take longer to solidify and if you use too less, it will solidify too fast.
  

• So know your adhesive!
  

• When lashing, you should be observing the adhesive, the environment, the humidity and the moisture in the surroundings. 
  

• Always have a feedback loop so you know how your adhesive is reacting to your application style. 

What is a feedback loop?

• Feedback loop is when you’re asking for ways to improve. You need to create this feedback loop with your adhesive and observe it to see how it’s working. 
  

• Observe whether it’s drying too fast or too slow, change the environment to make sure that the adhesive works best. 
  

• You’ll have to put on your science hat, not necessarily become a scientist but observe everything around you, especially the adhesive and see what works best. 
  

• If your adhesive is not working at a certain percent of humidity, you need to change things up and check at which humidity percent your adhesive works best. 
  

• You need to recognize a pattern that works and communicate these patterns to make yourself more efficient.

Humidity affects the way you’re applying the lashes but does humidity actually affect the actual retention and the end result? 

• If you’re using an adhesive in the right environment, and it’s going solid in the right amount of time by going into the cuticle, then you have the right environment. 
  

• Having a bit lower humidity will allow the adhesive the time to seep into the crevices of pine cones and the hair cuticles. 
  

• But it’s all about the balance act. You need to not lower the humidity too much as it can actually result in allergies. It can get too dry and if it’s cold season, allergies can be easy to come by. 

Listener Submitted Questions Answered:

One girl forgot she had lash extensions on and she rubbed her eyes and a bunch of lashes fell off, what could have been the issue?

Application! There must have been a gap between the lashes which when exposed to friction they fell off.

 

The lash extensions aren’t sticking and they’re just sliding off?

• Chances are the cuticles are either not fully open and issue with the preparation. There can also be an issue with the adhesive. Prepare a little better and create the pine cone and open up all the cuticles for better application.

Should you re-cleanse and start from scratch in such a case?

• Yes, it is better to stop and re-cleanse and start again. Better to spot treat an area with a primer to see if it works better.

Lashes are popping off, what can be the reason?

• The problem is either too little adhesive, or the adhesive is drying up too fast. Most of the time you can test this by picking up more adhesive and see if it still pops off. 

• It’s important to vigorously brush your set in the middle of your work, every 10 to 15 minutes.

Lashes are not wrapping and are just staying on the side?

• Not enough adhesive and too much moisture in the air. The adhesive is drying too fast. It doesn’t have the flexibility to move with the lash and settle.

Any way to reduce the moisture without using a dehumidifier?

• A dehumidifier is highly recommended as it is the best way to do it but it also depends on the location where you live. 

• If your home is more humid than the outdoors, you can open the windows to let the air in to manage the moisture. 

• Humidity and temperature go hand in hand. So, if it gets warmer, it will have more humidity. 

• Even if dehumidifiers or Air Conditioners are expensive, there is nothing more important than the comfort of your clients. 

• You need to invest and take the risk, as chances are they will pay you back tenfold. 

Fans are collapsing and lashes are sticking together, how to fix this? 

• Use less adhesive to start. It must not be drying fast enough. 

• If adhesive is not the issue then you probably don’t have enough moisture in the air. So introduce more moisture. 

Two scenarios: a client who has lost all of her eyelash extensions in a few days, and the other is when you have 30 clients and only 1 or 2 have had lash retention issues? 

• If ALL of your clients lose their lashes, it is 100% your fault. You need to look back at your pattern and see where you made the mistakes. From the preparation to application and adhesive and environment. 

• Some clients have naturally too oily skin and will lose lashes faster than others. 

• Even if a small number of clients are having their lashes falling out, you’re still at fault. You need to look back at the pattern for these clients and figure out the mistake(s).

Client has lost more lash extensions on the left side than on the right side? 

• That’s because the client is right hand dominated, so it takes longer for the left side to dry if they’re applying on the left side with their right hand. 

Client goes on vacation and loses all her eyelash extensions within 2 weeks, who’s at fault here?

• The lash artist needs to prepare the client who is going on a vacation with the proper lash job. Depending on where they are going on vacation, the last artist needs to prepare them accordingly. 

• Let them know about the after care so the lashes last throughout their vacation and beyond. 

Does pillow friction affect retention?

• Yes! Even a soft pillow can cause friction and loosen the lashes. 

Should you always be using nanomisting or nebulizer while doing lashes? 

• Go for nanomisting! It reduces the possibility of having an allergic reaction.

What’s the #1 aftercare tip for lash clients? 

• It’s all about properly educating your clients. Clean it with pressure like you would be brushing your teeth. 

• Teach your clients so they know the right pressure and method of cleaning their lashes.

• This will prevent premature fall out.

What are the things you wish you knew when starting your business?

• Have a day when you can just be yourself. Go have a party and let go of all the worries and problems for a day and get all the toxic stuff out of your life. 

• Just have a day when you do absolutely nothing. This might prevent you from having a burn out. 

• Take a vacation and have fun more often! 

What’s the best piece of advice you have ever received? 

• Don’t always be a people pleaser! YOUR happiness is the most important thing for your life! 

• Be selective about the things you say yes to! 

• Do the things that light your soul on fire!

What do you want to be remembered for?

• I want to be remembered as the person who changed the world with kindness and curiosity. 

• Openness and kindness are the way to be content and happy. 

• Don’t confuse niceness with kindness. 

LINKS

Check out more of Cheryl Peng:

Untamed artistry’s Free “Know Your Adhesive” webinar:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QR4Puqd9ZO4

UA Free Volume Lash Training:
https://academy.untamedartistry.ca/courses/volume-eyelashextensions-refresher-course

Lashcast’s adhesive course:
https://lashcastproductions.com/

Some of our favourite UA commercials (so fun!!)
https://www.instagram.com/p/B4_T-_XHat3/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

https://www.instagram.com/p/B5DpnCinqcJ/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Special Offer: Get a 30 day trial of Lash Assist using the code LASHPRO at https://lashassistpro.com